DIAMOND SHAPE

The first step in choosing a diamond is deciding what shape you want. While the round shape is the most popular, there's plenty of other beautiful shapes to choose from which deliver brilliance and fire.

Of course, the most popular and commonly seen shape for diamonds is the round or brilliant cut, which has 57 or 58 facets (depending on whether the culet, or point at the bottom of the stone, is faceted or not). It's the 'classic' shape that most people think of when they think of a diamond. But the round cut is by far not your only choice. All shapes are capable of fantastic fire and brilliance. The only difference is the result of the diamond cutter's decision to cut the rough diamond into that particular shape


Choosing the best shape for you

The most important factor in determining shape, of course, is what appeals to you, and what looks best on your hand. Longer and shorter stones can visually affect the appearance of your hands, making them look longer or shorter in return. Also, your taste may guide you toward more traditional shapes, like the classic round brilliant, or toward less conventional shapes like pear, marquise or heart. While the shape of the diamond you choose is ultimately a matter of personal preference, there are differences in the various shapes that affect their brilliance, apparent size and value


Round brilliant-cut diamonds show the most brilliance and sparkle of all the shapes. When it comes to hiding imperfections, the round brilliant cut is the king. Its design allows it to hide flaws and yellow tints better than diamonds of other shapes. In emerald cuts and baguettes, which have long, flat facets, flaws become the most obvious


Emerald cuts, while sleek and attractive, are not quite as brilliant. If you like the square or rectangular shapes of an emerald cut, you may want to consider a radiant, princess or quadrillion, which have more facets and there fore more brilliance


If you want a diamond that looks as big as possible, even if it doesn't weigh much, consider a fancy shape like a marquise or pear, which appear bigger and longer than round diamonds of the same carat weight

DIAMOND - UNDERSTANDING CLARITY

understanding clarity

It is these inclusions or blemishes that give each diamond its own unique fingerprint, making your particular diamond truly yours. In fact, the independent grading report that comes with every diamond we sell will show a diagram indicting any characteristic your diamond, indicating any blemishes your diamond may have, as well as their location. The most important thing to remember when it comes to clarity is that a diamond's inclusions should not be noticeable to the naked eye, nor should they be so excessive that they affect the diamond's durability.

A diamond's ability to refract and reflect light is what makes it so brilliant and so valuable. The way it does this is by allowing light to enter the top of the stone, reflect off the facets that have been cut by a diamond craftsman, and reflect out the top of the stone to your eye. So, the fewer obstacles to this pathway there are, the greater the diamond's clarity will be, which increases the diamond's value (all other characteristics being equal).

Most diamonds contain some blemishes (crystals, clouds, or feathers), which can be found inside the stone (called inclusions). Surface blemishes are not considered a major concern, since they can often be polished away. Crystals are mineral deposits trapped inside the diamond; clouds are small specks or hazy areas that give a milky appearance; and feathers are small cracks that are shaped like a bird's feather.

Naturally, inclusions that don't impede the light's passage through the diamond or visibly decrease its beauty will not have a substantial effect on its value. It is more important that any blemishes do not affect the stone's attractiveness or durability, than that the diamond be 'perfect'.

A diamond's clarity is measured using a jeweler's loupe (a small magnifying glass used to view gemstones) under 10-power magnification. The FTC requires all diamond grading be done under 10-power magnification; any inclusions not detected under this magnification are considered to be non-exist


Since clarity is so critical, it will of course result in differences in value. If a diamond of a particular cut, color and carat weight is moved to the next clarity grade, it's possible to see a significant increase or decrease in the per-carat price - all other factors being equal. The object is to choose a stone with the greatest clarity grade your budget will allow, taking into consideration the other of the 4Cs as well

DIAMOND CARE

Diamond Care

Diamonds must be kept clean and be stored carefully when they are not being worn, or are being packed for travel. Because most people wear their engagement ring 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, it's essential that you're always mindful of its care. Here are some more guidelines to help keep your diamond in top condition

Do's
If you notice a loose stone setting, stones moving or any other noticeable damage to your jewelry, do not wear the jewelry until you have taken it to a professional jeweler. We recommend that you have a jeweler check the setting in your diamond ring (while you watch) once a year

When you're not wearing your diamonds, be sure to store them in a fabric-lined case or in a box with dividers or separate compartments--diamonds can scratch other jewelry as well as each other

Dont's
Avoid wearing your diamonds while doing housework, yard work or any other kind of rough work. Even though a diamond is extremely durable, a hard blow could chip it

When doing household chores, never allow your jewelry to come into contact with chlorine bleach



Cleaning Your Diamonds

Diamonds, like anything else, get smudged, soiled and dusty. Lotions, powders, soaps--even the natural oils from your skin--will create a film on diamonds, which will reduce their brilliance. In addition, chemicals in the air will oxidize or discolor the mountings. Keeping your jewelry clean will maximize its brilliance. Here are four ways Diamond.com suggests you clean your diamonds:


Detergent Bath:

Prepare a small bowl of warm suds using any mild household liquid detergent (be sure not to use any cleaners containing chlorine). Brush the jewelry with a soft brush until you have created a lather around it. With the jewelry on a plastic or metal strainer, rinse off with warm water (be sure not to clean your jewelry over the drain!) Pat your jewelry dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.


Cold Water Soak:

Make a solution of 4 parts cold-water and 1 part very mild dish washing detergent. Soak the pieces for several minutes. Lift out and tap gently around all sides of the mounting with a soft brush. Rinse the pieces in the solution once more and drain on tissue paper.


Quick-Dip Method:

Buy one of the brand name liquid jewelry cleaners, choosing the one that is best for the kind of stones and metals in your jewelry. Read the label carefully and follow the instructions. Do not touch your clean diamonds with your fingers, as the oils from your hands will leave a film on the stone.


The Ultrasonic Cleaner:

There are many types of these small machines available to the public today. They will clean any piece of jewelry that can be soaked in a liquid within a matter of minutes. These machines often have a metal cup, which is filled with water and detergent. When the machine is turned on, a high-frequency turbulence is created. Avoid putting emeralds in ultrasonic cleaners.


NOTE: Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions and warnings before using these machines. The above methods are not appropriate for pearls, opals, lapis, corals and many other gems. A very quick dip in plain lukewarm water is suggested for these fragile pieces

Traveling with Diamonds

Packing your precious diamond jewelry for traveling should be done with utmost care. There are many types of jewelry carrying cases that are specifically designed for jewelry travel, available in all price ranges, sizes, shapes and patterns. Most have velvet pads inside to attach pins and earrings, with special compartments for bracelets and necklaces. Don't ever leave your jewelry on the rim of a sink when you remove it to wash your hands. It can very easily slip down the drain. When you're away from home, don't take off your jewelry in a public place--you may accidentally forget it and lose it forever

DIAMOND CUT TYPES

Diamond proportion

There are many measurements that go into creating a diamond that truly maximize the refraction of light. Facets must be cut at exactly the right angles relative to one another; the top and bottom halves of the stone must have the proper depth relative to each other; the table, or flat surface on the top, must be the correct size, relative to the overall size of the stone. And, of course, the facets on the top (crown) and bottom (pavilion) must align correctly with each other. Here is a diagram showing a diamond's basic proportions

These measurements and percentages are different for each diamond, and are all taken into account in the evaluation of a diamond's cut. In fact, each diamond shape (heart, round, oval, emerald, etc.) has its own set of guidelines for what makes a Premium or Good cut.

An 'ideal cut' is a specific set of guidelines that delineate the proportions that give a diamond the highest amount of fire and brilliance.

Although the proportions of an ideal cut vary depending on the source you talk to (from jeweler to jeweler, country to country), there are certain ranges that are generally accepted as capable of evoking the most desirable fire and brilliance from a stone. These ranges must cause the light entering the diamond to be reflected and dispersed through the table (top), not through the sides or bottom.

But most of all, an ideal cut diamond must be cut to bring out the stone's brilliance and fire, not retain the most weight from the rough cut stone

Diamond.com's Diamond Proportion Guidelines

Diamond.com maintains extremely stringent guidelines for diamond quality. All diamonds we offer must fall within specific ranges to be judged acceptable by our staff gemologists.

Below is a table listing each of our three cut grades for a round brilliant diamond (Ideal, Premium and Good). The table percentage given is the measurement of the diamond's table width, relative to the width of the entire stone (at its girdle, or widest point). This relationship is critical for maximum fire and brilliance: too small or too large a table can hamper the diamond's ability to disperse light properly, not to mention possibly causing the stone to appear smaller for its weight.

The depth percentage listed is the length of the stone from table (top) to culet (bottom), expressed as a percentage of the diamond's width, measured at its widest point. This depth-to-width relationship is largely responsible for the diamond's being properly proportioned, resulting in the proper refraction of light and maximum fire and brilliance

Round Brilliant Diamond Cut Grades

GRADE TABLE PERCENTAGE DEPTH PERCENTAGE
Ideal 53% - 57% 59% - 62%
Premium 58% - 63% 58% or 63%
Good 64% - 65% 57.5 or 64%

It's important to note that some independent grading laboratories do not grade a diamond's cut, while others do. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), for example, does not give an evaluation of the quality of a diamond's cut, only the shape and measurements of the stone. It does, however, give the proportions of the diamond (depth and table percentages, girdle thickness, culet size (if any) as well as a general rating of the stone's finish, including its polish and symmetry

Symmetry

Symmetry describes several factors: how the facet edges align with each other; whether the corresponding facets from opposite sides of the diamond align with each other or not; and whether the facets from the crown, or top of the diamond are properly aligned with the corresponding ones on the bottom (pavilion). When choosing a diamond, look for Excellent, Very Good or Good ratings on the grading report, if symmetry is graded


Fluorescence

When exposed to ultraviolet light, small percentages of diamonds fluoresce, or emit light, which may be yellow or blue. Fluorescence does not necessarily affect a diamond's value, however it is listed on a diamond grading report

The bottom line

When it comes to judging cut, the most important thing to remember is that quality and craftsmanship are more important than size, since these characteristics can mean the difference between a positively radiant, lively diamond, and a lifeless, lackluster stone (that may, in fact, be larger). Remember, diamonds have more value if they have been cut to maximize their brilliance, not their size. All in all, cut must be balanced along with the rest of the 4Cs in order to find the highest quality diamond your budget will allow

DIAMOND - CUT

The only one of the 4Cs that is within our control is a diamond's cut

Topics on this page

Proportions

Symmetry

Diamond.com Guidelines

Fluorescence

Cut Grades

Bottom Line


Cut is the result of a craftsman's skill in transforming a rough diamond into a breath taking gem. A diamond has facets that allow light to enter it, become refracted, and exit in a rainbow of colors. So it follows that a better cut diamond does a better job of dazzling us with its beauty. Here's the 'secret' to how a diamond sparkles

As you can see, the diamond with the correct proportions does a more effective job of refracting light out the top of the stone to your eye. The less-than-ideal cut diamonds allow some light to become lost out the bottom

DIAMOND - UNDERSTANDING CARAT

A diamond's weight is measured in what is known as a 'carat', which is a small unit of measurement equal to 200 milligrams.

Carat is not a measure of a diamond's size, since cutting a diamond to different proportions can affect its weight. (The word 'Karat' is used to express the purity of gold, and is not used in relation to diamonds.) Here is a diagram that shows the relative size of various carat weights in a diamond that is cut to the same proportions:

Note: the diamonds illustrated are not shown actual size. You may also print a PDF file with the actual sizes

The most important thing to remember when it comes to a diamond's carat weight is that it is not the only factor that determines a diamond's value. In other words, bigger does not necessarily mean better. All four Cs-Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight must be balanced in order to arrive at a diamond that fits your budget. None of the 4Cs is mutually exclusive, nor is any one more important than the others.

The word carat actually comes from the word carob (as in carob seeds), which is how ancient cultures measured the weight of diamonds on their scales. In 1913, however, the weight was standardized internationally and adapted to the metric system.

Although they can be measured when mounted in jewelry, diamonds are most accurately weighed when they are not mounted in a setting. In fact, gemological laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and American Gemological Society (AGS) will only grade diamonds that are unmounted. A diamond grading report will tell you the exact carat weight, to the nearest hundredth of a carat, for that particular diamond. Each Carat is divided into 100 parts called 'points.' So a 1-carat diamond has 100 points, a 3/4 carat has 75 points, etc. Points in a fraction of one carat are measured within ranges, so that a 3/4 carat diamond may have between .69 and .82 points and still be considered a 3/4 carat. Here's a table of size and weight ranges:

Carat Fractions and Their Decimal Equivalents:
CARAT FRACTIONS DECIMAL EQUIVALENT
1/10 = .09 - .11
1/8 = .12 - .13
1/7 = .14 - .15
1/6 = .16 - .17
1/5 = .18 - .22
1/4 = .23 - .28
1/3 = .29 - .36
3/8 = .37 - .44
1/2 = .45 - .58
5/8 = .59 - .68
3/4 = .69 - .82
7/8 = .83 - .94
1.0 = .95 - 1.05

Remember, all diamonds are not created equal. Two diamonds of equal Carat Weight may vary substantially in price due to their Cut, Color and Clarity. Also, a diamond's weight can be 'hidden' in different parts of the stone. For example, you can have a well-cut diamond, whose weight is distributed properly, a diamond that is cut too shallow to make it wider and heavier, but not the most brilliant, or one that is cut too deeply, to add weight to the bottom of the stone - again compromising its ability to radiate maximum brilliance.

The bottom line

The carat weight of a diamond is an extremely important determining factor in its value. Diamonds are valued on a per-carat basis. For example, a diamond of exceptionally high quality may sell for $20,000 per carat, while one of lesser quality may sell for $1,000 per carat. So, a three-carat stone could be $60,000 or $3,000, depending on its per-carat price. Diamond values also increase disproportionately as the size of the stone increases. In other words, a two-carat stone will not necessarily cost twice per carat than a one-carat stone. It could cost much more, since diamonds are rarer in larger sizes. As you take a stone of a particular cut, clarity and color and move its carat weight to the next price category, you may see quite a large increase in the price per carat. Remember that size isn't everything. When choosing a diamond, all 4Cs must be taken into account. The key is to strike a balance among them, while still working within your budget

DIAMOND - VALUE

There's no magic answer to the question, "which 'C' is the most important one?" The fact is, finding the best diamond for your money is a delicate balancing act among the 4Cs. For example, you may have to choose a lower Carat weight in order to find a diamond with better Clarity for the budget you've set. Or you may decide to trade a slightly lower Color grade in order to get a stone with a better Cut, etc. Excluding carat weight as a factor, the highest quality attainable in a diamond is a "D" color, IF (internally flawless) clarity stone that is Ideal Cut, meaning it gives off the maximum amount of fire and brilliance. You'll have to decide, based on your budget, how close to this ideal you wish to come

How a diamond's Carat weight affects its value

The carat weight of a diamond is an extremely important determining factor in its value. Diamonds are valued on a per-carat basis. For example, a diamond of exceptionally high quality may sell for $20,000 per carat, while one of lesser quality may sell for $1,000 per carat. So, a three-carat stone could be $60,000 or $3,000, depending on its per-carat price. Diamond values also increase disproportionately as the size of the stone increases. In other words, a two-carat stone will not necessarily cost twice per carat than a one-carat stone. It could cost much more, like three times. This is because diamonds are more rare in larger sizes, so increases in size can mean disproportionate increases in value. As you take a stone of a particular cut, clarity and color and move its carat weight to the next price category, you may see quite a large increase in the price per carat. This jump gets proportionately larger as the number of carats increases


How a diamond's Cut affects its value

A diamond's cut is a complicated evaluation based on many factors, including depth and table percentages, crown angles, girdle thickness and others. Added to that, some independent grading laboratories do not grade cut, like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), making the determination even harder to quantify. We can, however, tell you that an ideal cut diamond generally garners a 20 to 30% higher price than one that is just "good". A diamond's shape can also affect its value, although usually to a lesser degree than its cut does. The reason for price differences between stones of comparable quality and size is primarily due to their supply and demand at a particular time, as well as the cost of the specialized labor skills needed to cut more intricate, fancy shapes. It is also less time consuming to cut, measure and select small round-shaped diamonds than small diamonds of more complicated shapes. Generally speaking, because of the popularity and demand for larger round diamonds, they usually cost more than fancy-shaped diamonds of comparable size and quality. There is very little differentiation in the value of comparable quality diamonds that have been cut into emerald, square or rectangular brilliant-cut shapes.


How a diamond's Color affects its value

A diamond's color also has a great impact on its cost. Since ''colorlessness'' is the most sought-after trait in terms of color, diamonds that are higher up on the color scale (e.g. D, E, F) will have a greater value. If a diamond with a specific cut, clarity and carat weight is moved to the next color grade, it's possible to see a significant increase or decrease in the per-carat price-- all other factors being equal


How a diamond's Clarity affects its value

Since clarity, or the measure of imperfections or blemishes in a diamond, is so critical, it will of course result in price differences. If a diamond of a particular cut, color and carat weight is moved to the next clarity grade, it's possible to see a significant increase or decrease in the per-carat price-- all other factors being equal

DIAMOND - COLOR

The most important thing to know about diamond color is, in general, the less color a diamond has, the more valuable it is, all other factors being equal.

Diamonds are found in nature in a wide range of colors, from completely colorless (the most desirable trait) to slightly yellow, to brown. So-called 'fancy color diamonds' come in more intense colors, like yellow and blue, but these are not graded on the same scale.

The diamond color grading system uses the letters of the alphabet from D through Z, with 'D' being the most colorless and there fore the rarest and most valuable, and 'Z' having the most color within the normal range, and being the least valuable, all other factors being equal. A diamond's color is determined by looking at it under controlled lighting and comparing them to the Gemological Institute of America's color scale, which is based on a set of diamonds of known color. Here is a diagram showing how a diamond's color is graded

Diamonds found in nature come in colors ranging from colorless to slightly yellow or brown, to more rare and costly pink, green or blue stones (commonly referred to as 'fancy' diamonds). Excluding 'fancy' diamonds, the ideal color for a diamond is colorless, although this is extremely rare.

A diamond's color is most accurately determined when it is not mounted in a setting, since settings can introduce tints of their own color into the diamond. This is more evident in yellow gold settings, and less so in white gold and platinum settings. Even a trained professional can't always tell the difference between close grades of color in a diamond if it is still mounted in a setting. For this reason, gemological laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and American Gemological Society (AGS) will only grade diamonds that are unmounted.

Diamonds with a color grade of D, E or F are considered colorless; G, H, I and J are near colorless; K, L and M have a faint yellow tint; N, O, P, Q and R have a very light yellow tint and S, T, U, V, W, X, Y and Z are light yellow. A diamond that is a D color is absolutely colorless, and is therefore the most valuable. However, it's important to understand that color alone does not determine the value of a diamond. All '4Cs' must be taken into account. A diamond of D color that has imperfections or is poorly cut is not as valuable as a stone of a lower color grade that has a superior cut and clarity.

The bottom line

A diamond's color also has a great impact on its cost. Since ''colorlessness'' is the most sought-after trait in terms of color, diamonds that are higher up on the color scale (e.g. D, E, F) will have a greater value. If a diamond with a specific cut, clarity and carat weight is moved to the next color grade, it's possible to see a significant increase or decrease in the per-carat price--all other factors being equal. The idea is to choose a diamond that is as high on the color scale as your budget will allow, taking all 4Cs into account

Luxury Goods Gems And Jewelry - certification

A certificate is diamond's "fingerprint".

A diamond grading report is a detailed explanation of a diamond's characteristics such as its cut, weight and dimensions. Many diamonds are certified by an independent laboratory so that purchasers can feel confident that their diamond is indeed of the quality the seller represents. A certified diamond's quality is guaranteed, and is therefore more valuable than an uncertified stone. A certificate verifies a diamonds identity and value and is recognized by all gemologists.

Diamonds are certified by independent grading entities whose expert gemologists evaluate each diamond's particular characteristics and attributes, such as clarity, cut, color, carat weight, fluorescence and other characteristics. Loose diamonds from Diamond.com are graded by either the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), AGSL (American Gemological Society Laboratories), or IGI (International Gemological Institute), the world's most respected grading entities. All of these institutes including the GIA, IGI and the AGSL are known for their consistency, stringency and impartiality when grading diamonds.

Below is a sample diamond grading report from the Gemological Institute of America, the foremost authority on diamond grading. The majority of diamonds you'll find at Diamond.com come with a GIA report


A diamond grading report from an independent laboratory is not an appraisal, which estimates the monetary value of a particular stone. It is an unbiased, informed opinion made by an experienced gemologist. You will receive the original certificate or report with your diamond order.

Purchasing loose diamonds accompanied by certificates allows one to comparison shop and know exactly what they are getting. The slightest change in a diamond's grading can significantly alter its value